Flash lighting · 3 min read

I added a grid. Why is my background still bright?

By DNA Premium Portraits ·

A grid limits flash spread, but it does not block every source of light. Use four simple checks to find spill, bounce and room light.

The short answer

Start here.

A grid narrows the spread of your flash. It does not turn off window light, stop every bounce or make a white wall black. Check each source of light on its own.

Your three next steps

  1. Take one photo with every flash off.
  2. Turn on just the main flash and check the wall.
  3. Change the aim, add a flag or increase the gap behind the person.
In this lesson
  1. Start with the lights off
  2. Find where the flash goes
  3. Try one small move
  4. Read the face and the wall

Start with the lights off

Set the camera for the photo you want. Turn off all flashes. Take a test frame. If you can still see a bright room, a grid will not remove that light.

You can dim the room, close a curtain or change the camera exposure. In normal sync, a faster shutter reduces room light. Stay within your gear’s sync limits. Keep enough light for people to move around safely.

Find where the flash goes

Turn on the main flash alone. This is the key light: the light that does most of the work on the face. Look at the background in the new photo.

If it gets brighter, some flash is reaching it. The beam may hit it directly. Light may also bounce from a white wall, bed or ceiling. A grid helps with spread. It cannot stop all those paths.

Try one small move

Aim the softbox a little across the person, so less of its beam hits the wall. This is called feathering. Check that the face still has the light you want.

You can also place a dark flag between the light and the wall. A flag blocks light from one area. Keep it clear of the person and out of the frame. Secure the stand.

More space between the person and the wall may help. If you bring the light closer to the face, turn down its power to keep the face at the same level. Then check the wall again. Large softboxes at close range need real meter checks.

Read the face and the wall

For this comparison, keep ISO and meter direction the same. At each point, aim the incident meter’s dome toward the camera. Keep the same lights on for both readings.

A face reading of f/8 and a wall reading of f/4 is a two-stop light gap. The wall gets one quarter as much light in that test. Yet a white wall may still look lighter than a dark shirt. Surface color matters too.

Remember this

A grid is one part of the fix. Check room light, flash aim and bounce too.

Make the room work for your portrait.

Try the bedroom and hotel-room plan, with clear placement steps and meter goals.

Plan light for my room →

Sources & further reading

These are original lessons with our own examples. The links below explain the related principles.

Published by DNA Premium Portraits with AI assistance. This lesson is educational; a suggested setting is not a tested result for your exact setup.